Tuesday, March 03, 2009

bean count

I fear I've lost an important battle in the last few months. Sure I won a few, but in all, beans have gotten the best of me lately.

I know what you're thinking: "they are so good for you," or "beans are so economical," or the best yet, "they're good for the heart (and some other bodily functions rhyming with said organ)." Well, I've made my peace with those tiny little nutrient rich legumes. I celebrate my few victories, and I humbly give beans their proper respect as the most difficult thing I have tried to cook thus far. I never saw it coming, but it is true. I cannot crack the code to successfully cooking dried beans.

I consider myself a decent cook. I'm lucky to like being in the kitchen. I like watching the raw ingredients transform from something inedible or unpalatable into something soft, pleasing, and loaded with flavor. Science experiments made me nervous in high school, but watching the chemical transformation taking place in a frying pan fascinates me. My success rate for unlocking the delicious flavor and texture of foods is pretty good, and when I fail, I will try again until I get it right. But try and try as I may, I've not gotten it right with beans. I'd like to take inventory of my recent attempts. Let's call it a "bean count," shall we?

First there were the kidney beans. I found this recipe by the popular food blogger Elise. The recipe looked easy enough, and when Elise started off the post by admitting that beans weren't all that exciting but this recipe was, I felt I could trust her. So I dove in and made the recipe that night. Verdict: Ate it for dinner, tossed the leftovers. Although I got the texture right, the taste was bland. Perhaps using the pork kielbasa instead of smoked shanks was where I went wrong. 1 point for beans, 0 points for me.

Black beans are a story unto themselves. Now let me tell you, if anyone wants black beans to turn out delicious it is me. They were a favorite treat of my childhood. My family and I would visit Miami a few times a year and stay with our Cuban relatives. As sure as I could breathe, I could count on walking into my abuela's apartment with her shiny white tiled floors and find two things going on. One was the television blaring in the corner with big breasted Latin women "acting" on a cheesy, melodramatic novela (soap opera). The other thing I could count on was a big pot of black beans gently simmering on the stove. The delicious, dark elixer of my childhood, these beans were smooth, creamy, and perfectly flavored every time. I have been able to incorporate a lot of Cuban dishes into my own repertoire, but black beans from scratch? That has remained outside of my grasp.

The first attempt at dried black beans was a few months ago. I followed the directions on the bag. I simmered, seasoned, and cradled the pot with love. They turned out overly firm with far too much water, and, therefore, zero flavor. 2 points for beans, 0 points for me.

A few weeks later I went to a friend's house, and she pulled out a container of leftover bean soup to feed her daughter. I sat there and asked her questions about how she cooked it, all the while trying to control my envy at her nonchalant responses. She made it sound so easy. Riding off of her confidence, I went home and put some beans in a pot to soak overnight. The next day I found a similar recipe to my friend's, put the pot on the burner, and left the water and heat to do it's thing. I taste tested a few times and each time felt the beans were still too hard. Finally, around midnight (I started it around 7pm!), I took the pot off the burner. Way, way too much water. Beans were tough. It tasted oh-so-tragically bland. Without a second thought, I flipped over the pot into the sink. And there I stood...at midnight...with my sink clogged by mediocre beans in steaming hot water...and the rest of the house blissfully asleep. Black bean, dirty sink water, anyone? I didn't think so. 3 points for beans, 0 points for me.

You'd think burning my hands at midnight would be enough to convince me to call it quits, but an affection for black beans wasn't the only thing I inherited from my Cuban ancestors. I also inherited a healthy dose of stubbornness. So for my third and final attempt, I set out a few weeks later to finally crack the code. Armed with bacon, onions, garlic, green peppers, and a slew of spices, I stirred that pot vigorously. I'll admit, when I put the lid on and walked away, I smiled sheepishly. It smelled so damn good. There was no way these suckers wouldn't turn out.

They didn't turn out. Hard. Too much water, again. Maybe I should have left the lid off so the water would reduce as it cooked. I felt incredibly dejected. How could I call myself Cuban? 4 points for beans, 0 points for me.

Alas, I must shed some positive light on the whole affair. I have had a few successes with beans as of late. The miso paste I bought from Whole Foods is wonderful. Simply mix in two teaspoons of the organic soy paste with a cup of steaming hot water and you have instant miso soup. Perfect for cool evenings or an afternoon snack with some slices of cheddar cheese and whole grain crackers. It's all the goodness of that cup of miso soup you always get at the sushi restaurant but in the convenience of your home. Love it. That's 1 point for me.

And you can also give me a point for buying frozen edamame. When defrosted and tossed with soy sauce, they are a delicious salty snack, despite what Karis thinks. I liken them to the boiled peanut of the Asian world.

This is clearly not a food blog. If it was, I'd have a recipe to share. This is simply a tragic story of me giving up. No more dried beans. My family and I stand up proudly for the variety packed in a can, birthed somewhere in a factory by a faceless machine. Sure, my pride is hurting. Afterall, beans still remain a mystery. I'll accept your condolences in the comments section below. But whatever you do, please do not tell me about your successful bean adventures. My envy just might turn into optimism, and I just don't think I can handle that.

If you are so inclined, you can read a little bit more about the value and history of beans here and here.

17 comments:

Anonymous said...

I totally agree on the black bean mystery. Canned is always most flavorful. Abuela might have to share her secret. I've lately enjoyed cooking dried split peas. Combining it with those miracle spices helps makes a delicious split pea soup. I'll share the recipe with you sometime.

Jen

Lexy said...

Oh how I relate to this post! Once again you make me realize that I am not alone. I have given up on dried beans, but a recent flurry from some friends on Facebook has made me confident in one more attempt... somewhat funny that you post this! Thanks for the links to the beans information I have been trying to track down some of this!

M.E. said...

personally I haven't even TRIED. I have a great bean soup recipe...but I just use canned beans...

Thanks for making us smile (as always!!)

Jake and Jess said...

i can absolutely see where you're coming from but i have a secret to share that has made cooking dry beans a delight - we bought a pressure cooker.

i can't remember cooking beans without them now the pressure cooker makes it so easy and so much more enjoyable! we win every time!

hope this helps!

Alina said...

Jess...Your advice is well timed! I was just remembering a distant memory of my abuela's beans always coming straight from a pressure cooker to the table! Yes, I do think this might be the magic key. Uh oh, I think I sense optimism. Dang it!

Nan said...

I come from a long line of bean makers/eaters and I want you to enjoy your own made your way,so heres a little unsolicited advice....
*add salt only AFTER beans are tender
*salt added early will toughen the beans
*when beans are tender bring to a boil without the lid to reduce extra liquid
*smashing a few beans (or more)against the side of the pot with a spoon will help to thicken the broth
Please try again, nan

Anonymous said...

i will suppress the urge to tell you about a great lentil soup recipe i have. then again, i think lentils are a different ball game than other dried beans.

your post is timely - the other day i decided to make a white bean bruschetta-like dish with dried beans. i put them out to soak in the morning, realized i didn't have time to deal with them, popped open some canned beans, forgot about covered soaking beans, almost left for the weekend after they had been soaking for close to two days.

not a pleasant smell...

embrace the cans, my friend, and live to fight another day.

Alina said...

Nan--Thanks for the advice. Whenever it comes from you, I don't consider it "unsolicited."

Kate--That does sound frightening...old, stale bean water. Yummo! As for lentils? I almost mentioned them in the success category. They almost always turn out with a little curry stirred in and served over rice. Care to share your soup recipe? Also, in the link I included to whole foods, they suggest cooking lentils in one of their ready made jarred curry sauces. That sounds like my idea of fast food.

Some girl from Raleigh. said...

maybe you could try this:

bring a pot of water to a boil. Add your beans, boil for 2 minutes (yes. thats right). Then turn off the heat, let them sit, covered for an hour. This is the equivalent of soaking for 8 hours or overnight.

When you are ready to cook, drain all the water from the beans, and add the beans to a new pot of water and boil for about 25 minutes or so all the while adding your ingredients for the dish you are making. The beans should be ready if you blow on them and the skin breaks.

I spent many hours throwing out hard, yucky tasteless beans. I've arrived at the conclusion that beans are "social". They like to have company while cooking. <-- that sounds dumb, but its true in my experience and there's no other way to put it for me.

Good luck on your bean adventures.

Anonymous said...

You've now given me an idea for my next week's cooking challenge! (little plug; helppetercook.com). I never realized they'd be a pain to cook because I openly admit to just having them out of the can, mainly black beans. Now it seems like a challenge I'd like to try to. As others have said, don't give up!

I really like the lighting in the photos as well. And that the beans make a giraffe in the last one. :)

Alina said...

C. Starchenko: Thanks for the tips! Really helpful...maybe, when I get up the nerve, I'll make another attempt.

Peter: I see the giraffe. Too funny. The lighting was a gift. The afternoon sun streaming made for some cool shadows and golden hues. I normally photograph in the morning light but had fun shooting in the late afternoon for this one.

Rachel said...

It's the same story with me trying to make perfect and savory rice.

Anonymous said...

Someone already mentioned it, but when I make pinto beans, the secret it salting when they are almost done. It really does make a difference than if you salt at the beginning.

jenni said...

Alina, this made me laugh. Great writing. :)
I've yet to really brave dried beans myself - I proudly enjoy canned black beans often. But I do want to try to use some dry red lentils in our pantry - I'll wait for Kate's recipe....

a girl said...

Heehee.... I can just picture you doing that! And I am proud of you for trying, so far the only beans I have tried are pinto and they are quite easy. After they are cooked I put them in a blender with olive juice and some seasonings if you want (chili powder and such) but the olive juice is where the flavor comes from. Now the kids and I can't eat the canned version.

Anonymous said...

Oh, I am so glad I read this post! I have been thinking that using dried beans is something I SHOULD do but haven't. Now I think I'll just stick with the cans. After all, even the canned variety are hard to sell in my family. So your experiment was not a waste...it has saved others of us from attempting similar disappointments!

Elsie said...

Hey Alina. Sorry for commenting ages after the original post. I've just felt a craving for beans, and decided to cook some that I've had in my cupboard for a long time. I worried about cooking unsoaked beans, only to remember that I once read a comment on your blog about boiling water and putting the beans in for a few minutes, and letting them stand for an hour or so. Just checked back to confirm that was right. Thanks C. Starchenko for the tip! Alina, your blog actually adds value to people's lives (me!)